{"id":110600,"date":"2025-11-15T16:15:42","date_gmt":"2025-11-15T22:15:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zeromagazine.mx\/?p=110600"},"modified":"2025-11-17T13:32:10","modified_gmt":"2025-11-17T19:32:10","slug":"ramon-monegal-perfumeria-poetica-entrevista-zero-magazine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zeromagazine.mx\/index.php\/2025\/11\/15\/ramon-monegal-perfumeria-poetica-entrevista-zero-magazine\/","title":{"rendered":"Ram\u00f3n Monegal: perfumista poeta y arquitecto del olfato"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n <\/div>\n\n\n\n

Desde su infancia en un pueblo costero hasta su estudio perfum\u00edstico lleno de matices po\u00e9ticos, Ram\u00f3n Monegal<\/strong> ha construido un universo olfativo que habla m\u00e1s all\u00e1 del aroma: es narrativo, es arquitect\u00f3nico, es \u00edntimo. Para \u00e9l, la perfumer\u00eda no es solo una industria; es un lenguaje tan conciso como la poes\u00eda, donde cada ingrediente es una palabra con peso. En esta entrevista para Zero Magazine<\/em>, Ram\u00f3n se permite ser libre: reflexiona sobre las reglas absurdas de la normativa, su visi\u00f3n creativa, y el poder de las capas olfativas para crear una identidad personal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Por: El Poderoso Dave
Fotograf\u00edas: Cortes\u00eda de Maison Peony<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfC\u00f3mo te perfumar\u00edas para retratar tu versi\u00f3n de los 20, de los 50 y de los 80 a\u00f1os?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A los 20 habr\u00eda necesitado enraizamiento, un v\u00e9tiver, para sentir que ten\u00eda algo s\u00f3lido, una base firme. A los 50, en plena madurez, me decantar\u00eda por flores: seducci\u00f3n, plenitud, elegancia. Y a los 80, definitivamente me rodear\u00eda de un buen s\u00e1ndalo. Una madera lit\u00fargica, \u00edntima, que evocara recogimiento y memoria.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Con tu marca propia tienes m\u00e1s libertad creativa. Si pudieras eliminar una regla de la perfumer\u00eda moderna, \u00bfcu\u00e1l ser\u00eda la primera?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Las regulaciones. Me parece absurdo que la perfumer\u00eda se presente como algo peligroso. Solo un 3 % de la poblaci\u00f3n sufre alergias; eso no deber\u00eda condenar al 97 % restante. Deber\u00edamos advertir con honestidad: \u201ceste perfume puede generar reacciones\u201d, en vez de prohibir por miedo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cuando trabajas para ti mismo eres artista; mencionas que entra la poes\u00eda en tus composiciones. \u00bfEn qu\u00e9 momento te diste cuenta de esa relaci\u00f3n entre poes\u00eda y perfume?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Me di cuenta cuando vi que los ingredientes son como palabras y las frases de un poema son como acordes. En perfumer\u00eda, cada nota, cada componente, existe \u201cporque tiene que estar\u201d. Es un lenguaje deliberado. Quiero que mis fragancias comuniquen algo, no solo que huelan \u201cbonito\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Si tuvieras que escribir acerca de otro perfumista-poeta, \u00bfa qui\u00e9n elegir\u00edas?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Me quedo con Pierre Bourdon<\/strong>. Y en cuanto a poetas, Antonio Machado<\/strong>. He creado perfumes inspirados en sus versos. Por ejemplo, un poema sobre un naranjo me llev\u00f3 a hacer una fragancia con neroli, petitgrain, la fruta y la madera de naranjo. Celebr\u00e9 mis 50 a\u00f1os rodeado de naranjos con ese aroma.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfHay ingredientes que consideres sobrevalorados o subvalorados en la industria?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u00ed, la bergamota<\/strong> me parece sobrevalorada: se usa mucho y a veces sin profundidad. En cambio, el iris<\/strong> \u2014su ra\u00edz\u2013 me fascina: es dif\u00edcil, cara, y ef\u00edmera, pero tiene matices que considero casi infinitos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfHa cambiado tu forma de evaluar una fragancia con el paso del tiempo?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Absolutamente. Me form\u00e9 en una era donde lo natural impon\u00eda su ley y conoc\u00edas cada origen del ingrediente. Hoy adapto mi visi\u00f3n: uso sint\u00e9ticos, mol\u00e9culas modernas, para estar \u201cen mi tiempo\u201d. No es una renuncia, es una conversaci\u00f3n con el presente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfPodr\u00edas narrar el mapa olfativo de tu infancia? \u00bfCu\u00e1les eran los olores que m\u00e1s te marcaron?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u00ed, tengo muchos: la sal del mar, el olor de las algas en la orilla; el humo de la madera al torcerla con fuego mientras viejos calafateros trabajaban; la hierba reci\u00e9n cortada; el cedro de los l\u00e1pices de la escuela; y hasta la mandarina del recreo. Todos esos olores construyeron mi memoria sensorial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfQu\u00e9 opinas del layering<\/em>, de usar distintas fragancias una sobre otra para inventar algo propio?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soy un defensor del layering. La industria nos dijo que no se pod\u00edan mezclar perfumes, pero eso es falso. Es la mejor manera de tener un perfume verdaderamente personal. No siempre acertar\u00e1s, pero con prueba y error construyes algo \u00fanico, como en la cocina: capas, intuici\u00f3n, ajuste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfCu\u00e1l es el problema m\u00e1s molesto que enfrentas como perfumista?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

La deshonestidad. Que digan \u201clleva feromonas\u201d cuando eso no existe. He probado feromonas sint\u00e9ticas; no huelen, no funcionan como cree la gente. Soy un guardi\u00e1n del perfume: me importa la autenticidad m\u00e1s que la venta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Si pudieras entrevistarte a ti mismo hace 20 a\u00f1os, \u00bfqu\u00e9 te preguntar\u00edas?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Me preguntar\u00eda: \u201c\u00bfC\u00f3mo ser\u00e1 la perfumer\u00eda del futuro?\u201d No estoy seguro de que habr\u00eda acertado: las regulaciones, la escasez de perfumistas\u2026 no me lo habr\u00eda imaginado. Pero me alegra ver que hoy la perfumer\u00eda de autor florece: m\u00e1s artistas, menos especulaci\u00f3n industrial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfQu\u00e9 necesita alguien para convertirse en perfumista? \u00bfQu\u00edmico, sommelier, artista?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lo importante no es que sean qu\u00edmicos ni sommeliers. Lo esencial es la imaginaci\u00f3n<\/strong>. El sentido del olfato se practica, se doma; la imaginaci\u00f3n, no. Se debe tener esa capacidad de inventar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ram\u00f3n Monegal no solo hace perfumes: traza mapas de memoria, construye poemas con mol\u00e9culas, y redefine lo que significa oler como acto creativo y libre. Su visi\u00f3n reivindica una perfumer\u00eda aut\u00e9ntica, sin artificios ni falsas promesas, y coloca el lenguaje olfativo como una forma de resistencia po\u00e9tica. En un mundo donde los aromas se venden como armas de seducci\u00f3n o promesas imposibles, \u00e9l apuesta por la honestidad, la profundidad y el enraizamiento.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Desde su infancia en un pueblo costero hasta su estudio perfum\u00edstico lleno de matices po\u00e9ticos, Ram\u00f3n Monegal ha construido un universo olfativo que habla m\u00e1s all\u00e1 del aroma: es narrativo, es arquitect\u00f3nico, es \u00edntimo. Para \u00e9l, la perfumer\u00eda no es solo una industria; es un lenguaje tan conciso como la poes\u00eda, donde cada ingrediente es una palabra […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":110327,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[9858],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-110600","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beauty-belleza","has-post-title","has-post-date","has-post-category","has-post-tag","has-post-comment","has-post-author",""],"yoast_head":"\nRam\u00f3n Monegal: perfumista poeta y arquitecto del olfato - 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